In the post-monsoon of 1996 Athol Whimp and I traveled to the Indian Himalaya and attempted a new route on the right side of Thalay Sagar's north face. Constant storms and intense cold frustrated our efforts and we reached no higher than ca. 6100m.
In 1997 we returned and made the first ascent of the north face via the much-attempted central couloir and shale band above. We were awarded the 1998 Piolet d'Or by Groupe de Haute Montagne and Montagne magazine, France for this ascent. The first ascent of Thalay Sagar was made in June 1979 via the northwest couloir and ridge. On this first ascent was my good friend John Thackray, along with Roy Kligfield and the late Pete Thexton.