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    <loc>http://www.asthemountainrises.com/index</loc>
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    <lastmod>2017-08-17</lastmod>
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      <image:caption>At Cerro Torre base camp, January 1994. L to R: John Fantini, Athol Whimp, Simon Parsons.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Beneath the awesome Fitz Roy after our ascent of the north pillar (right skyline).</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Perfect granite, no wind, and sunshine.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Cruising near the top of the north pillar.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Cerro Torre, January 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>On the road to El Chalten as the unmistakable Fitz Roy looms in the distance, December 1993.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Happy to be on the summit after two bivvies with no gear on the way up, 1.30pm on New Year's Day, 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Nearing the Paso Superior and start of the north pillar proper.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol on the Maestri route, January 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>1998 Piolet d'Or.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol Whimp at Gasherbrum IV base camp during attempts on the mountain, May 2003.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol with American alpinist and surfer Greg Crouch, Venica, CA, 1999. Greg released an updated profile he wrote on Athol and me for Climbing magazine in 2003. It is a moving memorial to Athol, and is available as an e-book on amazon.com.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/528813b4e4b0ce5ab8268ee8/t/52e6c287e4b0a65274a35388/1390854816357/CobawRangeBW.jpg</image:loc>
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      <image:caption>Athol at the Cobaw Range, Victoria. Photo: Charlie Creese.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol with his brother Tristram at Broad Saddle, Arthur's Pass area, New Zealand, 1980.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol on the left with his Oman Reconnaissance Force colleagues: Christopher Beese, Mikey Wilson, and Ray Johnston. Photo: Richard Essberger.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/528813b4e4b0ce5ab8268ee8/t/529bbf10e4b00e96519063fd/1434837688090/Gavin1999A.jpg</image:loc>
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      <image:caption>Gavin Tweedie, Arthur's Pass area, 1999.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Tim Macartney-Snape and Athol Whimp in the Grampians, Australia, December 2004.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol, Sheila Face, right buttress, 1996.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/528813b4e4b0ce5ab8268ee8/t/528bc00ee4b039a9b8550bcc/1384890387261/Balfour.jpg</image:loc>
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      <image:caption>Athol, new route on the Balfour Face, Mt. Tasman, winter 1993.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Descending Douglas Peak after climbing the south face, winter 2006. Mt. Cook (left) and Mt. Tasman are in the background.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Helo'ing into Pioneer and Douglas Peak, winter 2006.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>On Mt. Tasman, winter 2006.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Mt. Cook showing the low, middle and high peaks, and Mt. Hicks (left) from the south/village, 1998.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol, "Desolation Row," south face of Mt. Hicks, summer 1999.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Walking out after a trip up to "Mother Empress," summer 1996. L to R: Mt. Hicks south face, Mt. Dampier, Mt. Cook's Sheila and Hooker faces. Empress Hut is on the rocky outcrop directly beneath Green saddle (the col between Dampier and Cook).</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Balfour Face of Mt. Tasman, winter 1993.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Grand Plateau during solo trip, autumn 1999.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Bivy site in the Balfour neve with the west coast and Tasman ocean beyond, winter 1993.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Looking up the Tasman glacier with Mt. Elie de Beaumont on the left.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol on the edge of the cloud, "Desolation Row," South Face of Mt. Hicks, 1999.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Storm rising up the Baltoro glacier toward Concordia.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>GIV from base camp, 2003.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>In Skardu en route to GIV, 2003.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol on the west face, 2003.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Storm moving up the Baltoro glacier toward Concordia.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol on the west face, 2003.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/528813b4e4b0ce5ab8268ee8/t/5994f1418419c23fa4e2f3a1/1502933506157/</image:loc>
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      <image:caption>From the top left: Taking a break on the glacier; drinking on the lower icefields moments after a small piece of ice hit me, and our campsite immediately beneath the north face.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/528813b4e4b0ce5ab8268ee8/t/5994efd049fc2becdd50f925/1502933513687/</image:loc>
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      <image:caption>The photo on the left is looking directly up the north face from the top of the lower icefields. From this point we moved left approximately 50 meters and launched up the main couloir. The middle photo, taken by Athol, is looking down from half way up the final rock band prior to the summit cap as twilight lowered over us. The photo on the right was taken during our descent. I am climbing back up and across to Athol after retrieving one of my ice axes that had fallen and fortunately got stuck in the snow.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/528813b4e4b0ce5ab8268ee8/t/5994e984e3df282481f6caa3/1502931360357/</image:loc>
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      <image:caption>This photo of Athol was taken beneath Mt. Cook on the Hooker Glacier in the summer of 1999. Mt. Cook's summit ridge, Hooker Face and Sheila Buttress can be seen in the top right of the photo. The south face of Mt. Hicks can be seen in the middle background.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Thalay Sagar's north face from where we had our base camp at Kedar Tal (ca. 4500m), and celebrating with our cook and friend Bel.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>The highest our tent and sleeping bags went, ca. 6750m</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol approaching the north face direct line during our first day on the mountain.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol Whimp on the summit. Way out there...</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>On the huge, undulating plateau (ca. 5500m) at the foot of the north face proper.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol moving fast and unroped at dawn, about to reach the summit ridge, ca. 7250m.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Pushing along and up the summit ridge into bad weather at ca. 7400m.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Loading camera film as we returned in a daze along the summit ridge.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Dawn at base camp (4700m), under the massive north face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Looking down the Wall of Shadows.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Into the storm @ ca.7500m.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Bad conditions at ca. 7500m. We spent the night just left of the rock buttress.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>North face of Jannu from near Kambachen.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>On the plateau beneath the north face (ca. 5500m) the morning after descending. The blurring is a result of moisture on the inside of the camera lens.</image:caption>
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      <image:loc>https://static1.squarespace.com/static/528813b4e4b0ce5ab8268ee8/t/5292a1f3e4b0838eb29c7597/1385341441283/AndyJannu.jpg</image:loc>
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      <image:caption>Athol's shot of me from the summit. Soft snow over hard ice made for very demanding climbing. The incredible Kanchenjunga (8586m) is in the background. Photo: Athol Whimp.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>On the Jannu glacier during the earlier stages of our trip.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Moving up ice fields on the Wall of Shadows, about to be hit by waves of spindrift.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>From the northwest ridge immediately prior to storm.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Looking toward Concordia from base camp at night.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Near the mouth of the Baltoro glacier on the walk-in.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>In the Western Cwm, beaten but enlightened by our massive adventure.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Climbing the initial, major couloir on the west face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Near the top of the immense first couloir.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Near base camp.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Gasherbrum IV west face from near Concordia on the final morning of our walk-in. We made our base camp at the foot of the rocky ridge on the left of the narrowest point on the glacier.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Gasherbrum IV awaits as we walk-up the Baltoro glacier, late March 2003.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>On the KKH, heading to Gilgit then Karimabad.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol and the incessant spindrift on the west face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>The waiting game on the northwest ridge.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol heading up to the west face from base camp.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Brewing up on the west face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>A closer (although very foreshortened) look at the west face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Climbing on the west face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Moving up the northwest ridge in worsening weather, not far above the col. Old fixed rope from previous expeditions can be seen on the right.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Climbing on the west face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>West face at dawn from base camp.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol on the west face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol at the top of the first couloir in worsening weather.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Looking for a way through on the west face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>West face from base camp.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Epic retreat off the northwest ridge.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol on top of Half Dome after we made a free ascent of the northwest face, Regular Route, 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>"Cookie Monster," a fun route at the Cookie, 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol dealing to the Great Roof pitch of The Nose, El Capitan during a 15 hour ascent in 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>El Capitan, clearly showing The Nose route (the main prow).</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>On top of Half Dome after making a free ascent of northwest face Regular Route, 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Greg Crouch and Athol cruising Lunatic Fringe, 2010. See Greg's excellent books on his website here.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Under the California sun: Athol climbing the Stoveleg pitches of The Nose, El Capitan, during a 15 hour ascent in 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Looking down the Regular Route on the northwest face of Half Dome, 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>El Capitan.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>At the base of the northwest face of Half Dome prior to making a free ascent of the Regular Route, 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol, Zig Zag pitches, northwest face of Half Dome, 1994.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Climbing Daniel-Or-Tiger (30), Sandinista Wall, Mt. Staplyton, Grampians, January '97. An excellent route established by Martin Scheel in 1989.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Mt. Arapiles, western Victoria, summer 2008.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Looking west from Taipan Wall, Grampians, summer 2012. Mt. Arapiles is on the horizon.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol putting the finishing touches on "Archimedes' Principle" (25), Eureka Wall, 2004. Rob Lindblade on belay.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Grampians campsite sunset, summer 2012.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Above the second crux. Note unclipped crux bolt (blue sling) to reduce drag. Photo: Malcolm "HB" Matheson.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Dropping the hammer on the Fisting Party (Invisible Fist / World Party link-up) (27), Taipan Wall, summer 2012. This is classic Taipan –  steep, sloping, airy, and a rope-stretcher.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol Whimp pushing through the crux of another Matheson classic, Anaconda (28), Taipan Wall, 2011. Tristram Whimp on belay.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Athol warming up at the awesome Muline Wall, Grampians, summer 2012. The classic  "Eye of the Tiger" (30) takes the left side of the "eye," traverses the roof (out of sight) and then charges up the headwall following the chalk line.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Gearing down for the ever-steepening headwall finish of the mega-classic "Serpentine" (29), Taipan Wall, Grampians.  Malcolm "HB" Matheson had the vision and made the first ascent of this line in 1988, and blew the minds of climbers around the world. I first climbed it in December '92 and came back a couple days later with Malcolm to get these photos. Make sure you do the first pitch. Chris Yeomans on belay. Photo: Malcolm "HB" Matheson.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>At the top of the first pitch of "Archimedes' Principle" (25), Eureka Wall, Grampians, 2004. Photo: Athol Whimp.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Taipan Wall from Hollow Mountain, Grampians, summer 2012.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>On the lower buttress.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>On the Jannu glacier.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Moving up the lower buttress.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Ghunsa Khola, near Kambachen.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Exploring above base camp on rest day.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Another brew stop, moving up the lower buttress.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Sorting porter loads for the walk-in, Taplejung.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Beneath the north face.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>Moving up up the lower buttress.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>The pressure is off - relaxing in Taplejung after the ascent.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>My photo of Athol on the summit of Jannu, from the opening spread from the Alpinist 57 profile on Jannu.</image:caption>
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      <image:caption>This photo of Athol Whimp at our ca. 6750 meter tent site on Jannu's Wall of Shadows appeared in Alpinist 11 (Spring 2005), as part of a retrospective article by Stephen Venables on his and Andy Fanshawe's book Himalaya Alpine Style, first published in 1996.</image:caption>
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