In late December 1993 Athol and I arrived beneath Fitz Roy and immediately the mountains began to emerge from their apparently normal state of wind-ravaged storm. We launched up the staggering north pillar of Fitz Roy with the intent of climbing the late Marco Pedrini and Kurt Locher's route, Chimichurri y Tortas Fritas

While we thought we were indeed on Pedrini and Locher's route (we had a rough photocopy of their topo that was printed in Mountain), we were actually climbing a new variation, something we didn't figure out until very recently (thank you Rolo Garibotti – see his excellent

We reached the top on a windless new year's day after two open bivouacs with no sleeping bags. After another night out on the way down we reached the base and walked back to our tents in the trees.

After climbing Fitz Roy we made an ascent of the southeast (Maestri) pillar of Cerro Torre under threatening skies. A few weeks later Athol made the second solo ascent of this route (the first was Marco Pedrini).

Beneath the awesome Fitz Roy after our ascent of the north pillar (right skyline).

Nearing the Paso Superior and start of the north pillar proper.

Perfect granite, no wind, and sunshine. 

Cruising near the top of the north pillar.

Happy to be on the summit after two bivvies with no gear on the way up, 1.30pm on New Year's Day, 1994.

Cerro Torre, January 1994.

Athol on the Maestri route, January 1994.

At Cerro Torre base camp, January 1994. L to R: John Fantini, Athol Whimp, Simon Parsons.

On the road to El Chalten as the unmistakable Fitz Roy looms in the distance, December 1993.