In February 2000, Horska Revue magazine (Czech Republic) published my account of the ascent of Thalay Sagar's north face I made with Athol Whimp in 1997. What follows is the article itself.
This photo of Athol was taken beneath Mt. Cook on the Hooker Glacier in the summer of 1999. Mt. Cook's summit ridge, Hooker Face and Sheila Buttress can be seen in the top right of the photo. The south face of Mt. Hicks can be seen in the middle background.
Thalay Sagar's north face from where we had our base camp at Kedar Tal (ca. 4500m), and celebrating with our cook and friend Bel.
The photo on the left is looking directly up the north face from the top of the lower icefields. From this point we moved left approximately 50 meters and launched up the main couloir. The middle photo, taken by Athol, is looking down from half way up the final rock band prior to the summit cap as twilight lowered over us. The photo on the right was taken during our descent. I am climbing back up and across to Athol after retrieving one of my ice axes that had fallen and fortunately got stuck in the snow.
From the top left: Taking a break on the glacier; drinking on the lower icefields moments after a small piece of ice hit me, and our campsite immediately beneath the north face.